A couple of questions came in last week and again this morning. How much does it cost to service a watch, and what does it involve?
The answer to both of course is, it all depends. I’m not giving a roundabout answer as there are a lot of factors to consider. The make, model, whether or not it’s a battery or mechanical movement. We’ll primarily talk about automatic or mechanical movements.
So bear with me. Won’t take long I promise.
The question arose as a result of a client telling me about the “service” of his Rolex. A current model approximately 6-7 years old sent for a service by an authorised sales agent. My interest peaked when he told me the watch had to be sent away, that this authorised dealer could not service it on site.
Now I understand that for some prestige watch brands, a specialist will be required to inspect and service the hundreds of intricate parts that make up the movement. A Rolex movement for example will have over 200 parts working in unison, with tolerances of thousandths of a millimetre. A Patek Philippe for instance requires a monumental amount of operations and even the standard service takes some time. The final test stage alone can take up to 14 days. On a watch that can easily cost in excess of €150,000, don’t be too surprised.
But I was curious as to why a shop that sells such luxury timepieces, doesn’t have the facility to service them. On that I can’t comment, so perhaps if you ever do call in to such a shop, ask them and let me know.
For my customers I prefer not to send their timepieces out of the country. I prefer to send or deliver them personally to a watchmaker of 25+ years of experience in servicing Rolex, Omega, Cartier etc. A watchmaker with experience spent with these prestige companies. A watchmaker that specialised in both modern and vintage timepieces and one that supplies a quotation before any work commences. One that offers a guarantee on all services carried out.
But that’s just me.
So back to the question of how much and what does it consist of? For a prestige mechanical watch the basic work is as follows:
Movement removed, and disassembled. Components cleaned and inspected. Reassembled and lubricated, using the correct oil (in some cases, oils) Seals and gaskets are also replaced with water sealing to factory standard where applicable. The watch is then timed correctly. Included in a service is a clean and inspection of the case and bracelet. Both will be refinished, polished, and cleaned before the watch is put back in. Pressure testing and proofing can then be carried out.
Watch is kept for 2-3 days so post service checks can be carried out.
That is a “service”. It should take about 2-3 weeks to be complete. As for the cost, that depends on the watch, the condition, and the age. Most watches that have been handled by me, such as Rolex, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Omega, etc. have cost between €300 and €500. Some that have required parts, and part refurbishment have cost more.
As there are so many different types, makes and models, prices do differ. Some standard automatics for instance may be serviced for as little as €50.
So if you do have a watch you need serviced, feel free to fill out the contact form below for more information.
Images above show a vintage Rolex Day-Date, with Diamond Bezel. Watch underwent a full restoration, to include a dial restoration (also available on request), a case and bracelet polish and re-graining.
Twitter is a great medium. As social media platforms go, I seem to answer more questions there than I do in ‘real life’.
Lately a few have cropped up, disguised in the form of ‘What to do if you lose a small object’. As I’ve explained, there are very handy tips and tricks you can use for, let’s say, when you’ve noticed a diamond or gem missing from your ring.
It happens. In fact I’ve lost diamonds from my bench. They catapult out of a tweezers and rocket across the room. It can be little difficult to keep a steady hand all the time when you’re examining 1mm stones!
So how do I find them? And what happens when you have realised you are missing a gem or diamond?
The majority of clients, or people that call to ask what can be done, usually notice the missing gem while in their home. And out of that the majority of gems have been located.
Surprisingly the incident I hear the most often is noticing the missing gem after dressing or making a bed. You see settings (the metal structure where the gems are mounted) can get caught on fibres and threads. Woollens are notorious, and a setting can, over time, loosen.
Next on the list is ‘washing hands’. Again, ceramic sinks and basins and metal taps can damage a setting.
The other is no fault of anything other than the setting has worn over time. Different types of settings wear differently, so it is always prudent to check them from time to time.
So here are a few hints tips and tricks.
First, the floor.
It’s generally where they end up. Don’t sweep it, or you might brush it into corners, cracks or crevices and it will be lost forever, or until you take up all the floorboards.
I suggest the following. Take your vacuum cleaner, and use the hose and nozzle. But before you start sucking up all and sundry, take a pair of tights, or stockings, and cover the nozzle. Secure with a rubber band. Any object on a wooden floor, tiles, or carpet will be drawn to the suction.
If you believe you have lost a stone down the drain, the next port of call is to check the u-bend. Some (not all) have a sump, and it’s there you will most likely find the missing gem. If you’re u-bend doesn’t have this, fear not. Most weighty, solid objects will swirl about at the bottom of the bend. So unless you’re throwing gallons of water down at a time, you might just be pleasantly surprised.
Clothing and linens.
Yes it’s worth checking them. Have a search, a shake, a turn inside out, a brush, whatever. If it falls out, revert back to the vacuum. If you fear it’s too late, check your washing machine and/or washer dryer. There’s more often than not a lint catcher in them, so you might be lucky.
And to avoid all this, put your jewellery on ‘after dressing’. And keep a little ring box/holder for when you’re doing work.
Believe me there is a gigantic difference in having a Diamond Ring, and having a Ring where a Diamond used to be!
What’s your story?
Lose a gem, only to find it again? Tell me about it. Leave your comments below.
JEWELLERY APPRAISAL AND VALUATION
Michael Wall will be attending Keighery Gallagher, Main Street, Kilmacthomas on the weekends of the 20th – 22nd, and 27th – 29th of March 2014.
Michael will be providing a full appraisal and valuation service on the day to include:
A detailed examination of jewellery: this includes the weight and quality of the precious metals, and the shape, size and weight of the Diamonds and Gems.
A determined market value, replacement or facsimile value where applicable.
The importance of having Jewellery valued is necessary to satisfy the requirements of insurance companies. In the event of recovering lost or stolen items proof of ownership is useful in the instance of a claim, or when recovering or identifying stolen items by An Garda Siochana.
An important aspect of having your Jewellery appraised and valued is to guarantee against being charged duty and VAT on re-entering the country.
Valuations will include photographic evidence along with a full schedule of items.
Priced from €60
Michael will NOT be charging a final value fee on items.
Michael Wall is an accredited Jewellery Professional with the G.I.A*
Michael will NOT be buying gold or other metals.
For more information and to book an appointment:
Call Michael on 086 8687456 or mail email@example.com
Call Kathryn at Keighery Gallagher on 051 295739
Michael Wall AJP GIA
*Gemological Institute of America
As featured in the Cork Independent and www.weddingdates.ie
Slow down. It’s the only way. No matter how you count them there are 24 hours in the day. But you don’t need to count them, not every minute, not every hour.
What if you could glance at the whole day on your wrist? What if, like a sundial, you got the whole day in one, while working away at half the speed. What if, there was a slow watch?
A genius concept from creators Corvin Lask and Christopher Noerskau, it’s a one handed Swiss-made watch, with a definitive air of freedom.
“We created the slow watch to simplify our lives. Everyone around us wants to break away from the pace of constant clock-watching, living with a sense of time rushing by, and the slow watch allows us to do that”, explained Christopher.
Excellent idea, and beautiful concept. But what about the watch? Unlike product concepts that fail when put into production, the slow watch matches and if I’m perfectly honest, exceeds both.
It is elegantly designed. The materials used are very well thought out. The Italian calf leather strap evocative of Panerai, the well-tooled 316L stainless steel case which when seen from all angles is symmetrically perfect. Extra hardened mineral glass adds to the distinctive vintage look.
Although the watches are not outwardly branded, the discreet logo, etched into steel rests underneath. It simply says: Slow
This I very much like. A unique design does not need to show visible branding to be recognised.
Corvin Lask, co-creator said: “By keeping our logo hidden, our wearers are brand-free. By losing the minute hand, they have an even greater sense of freedom. As the slow community grows, we want men and women to know that they can take things easy wherever they are, restoring the balance in their lives by keeping time without watching every minute.”
It’s a substantial watch. It’s not however over-sized. It’s a 38mm case width, and with a weight of 65g for the canvas, nylon and leather straps, the Slow watch will suit both men and women.
The price. Well that’s the best bit. The range hits in between the €200 – €300 mark. In fact there should be plenty of change left, as the stainless steel strap version costs €260. The watches are available with a cream, black, and silver face. The cases available in silver, black, and gold-plated stainless steel.
The straps are interchangeable.You can opt for a canvas, nylon, or leather strap.
15 models in the range, yet one clear statement:
It’s time to be slow
My final thought:
An impeccable design. Simple, yet visually pleasing. The uncluttered round dial in rectangular case is aesthetically appealing. The construction, precise. Manufactured in Switzerland. The materials, very high quality.
I imagine the Slow watch will be very popular in years to come, so before the rush I suggest take some time and visit www.slow-watches.com where you can learn more about the idea, brand and concept.
It was minimal gems, vintage jewels and bold colours that wowed the red carpet in the Beverly Hilton for the 71st Golden Globes.
Last Sunday saw a lot of stars play it safe with just diamonds, while starts like Emma Watson braved a single Dior pearl earring, and Dior dress/trouser combination.
Vintage jewellery brought a touch of old Hollywood glamour in the guise of ‘Wolf Of Wall Street’ star Margot Robbie who’s elegant Gucci gown was exquisitely complimented by vintage Van Cleef and Arpels diamond earrings.
The vintage theme throughout the night was echoed by Uma Thurman’s choice of vintage Chopard chandelier earrings.
Julianne Marguilies picked 1973 onxy, coral and diamond estate earrings, a vintage ‘ludo’ bracelet, and ‘alhambra’ onxy ring all from Van Cleef and Arpels.
But none as elegant as Dame Helen Mirren who was the ‘queen of green’ that night in vintage emerald and diamond earrings from the collection of Gina Lollobrigida.
While stud earrings played a large part of the jewels on show that night, with ‘Breaking Bad’ star Anna Gunn, and Sarah Hyland from ‘Modern Family’ choosing elegant examples from Lorraine Schwartz, it was Lupita Nyong’o in Fred Leighton jewels and Ralph Lauren cape gown that impressed.
Leighton, no stranger to the red carpet, dressed Golden Globe nominees Meryl Streep, Julia Louis-Dreyfuss, and star of ‘Scandal’ Kerry Washington.
The bold was left to stars such as Emma Roberts and Zooey Deschanel. Ms. Roberts wore a Lanvin gown, with striking turquoise chandelier earrings from Neil Lane.
The designer was also the preferred choice of Ms. Deschanel who wore a pair of diamond, pearl and citrine platinum earrings, a diamond, pearl and platinum bracelet and ring.
One of my personal favourites that evening was Reese Witherspoon, who chose a 10ct emerald cut diamond ring, three stacked diamond line bracelets and diamond ear studs, from Harry Winston. Continuing the mini theme of turqouise/green she wore a figure hugging Calvin Klein dress.
But it was Cate Blanchett who truly stole the show in more ways than one. Picking up best actress for Woody Allen’s ‘Blue Jasmine’, it was the stunning Armani Privé black lace gown, and exquisite Chopard earrings that were the clear winners.
The Hollywood star looked the essence of elegance, in the high necked lace number. Certainly my number one choice that night. To add just a little regal touche, Cate chose a pair of Chopard earrings with 11cts of marquise cut white diamonds.
The latest addition to Chopards green carpet collection they were a laurel design crafted in fair-mined white gold.
There seems to be a little bit of confusion regarding carat weight and total carat weight, and judging by the amount of shop windows incorrectly displaying merchandise I’m not surprised.
A diamond is sold by carat weight.
So a one carat diamond solitaire (that’s one stone) will be denoted as being a 1.00ct diamond ring.
Now more often than not you will see rings and jewellery with more than one gem in them, denoted as having carats or cts.
In some instances you will see total carat weight or ctw.
The most important thing to remember is that 1.00ct ring is NOT the same as 1.00cts or 1.00ctw.
A 1.00ct 7 stone diamond ring means that the seven ‘total’ 1.00ct in weight. Which means each gem weighs between 0.14 and 0.15 ‘carat’ or ‘ct’.
A diamond ring with 1 stone totalling 1.00ct means the gem weighs 1.00ct.
Lets take 1 x round diamond, with F colour, 1.00ct weight:
Then take 7 x round diamonds, with F colour, totalling 1.00ct weight:
€250 x 7 = €1,750
There’s the difference.
So when you see more than one diamond, you should be told about each one individually, or the total amount, or in the case of gem and diamond, total gem weight.
Under NO circumstances should a mutli-stone ring be sold to you as having a carat weight. That’s misleading. It should be carats, or total carat weight.
I’m pleased to announce that this January 2014 Michael Wall Bespoke will be carrying a limited selection of Mikimoto pearl jewellery.
In 1899, the first Mikimoto pearl shop opened in the fashionable Ginza district of Tokyo selling natural seed pearls and half round pearls. The Mikimoto business expanded internationally, with stores opening worldwide. It is one of the first Japanese brands to attain international recognition.
Akoya and South Sea Pearls with White and Yellow Gold clasps will be available in Necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings and Rings.
Others available on request.
For the full range of Mikimoto pearl jewellery visit:
Coming this week are these three Baume & Mercier Capeland watches.
Baume & Mercier are a Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1830. Now owned by the ‘Richemont’ group it shares its prestigious place with the likes of Cartier and Piaget.
Three variations will be available, with White, Black and Copper Dials.
Shown here is the Chronograph, with Copper Dial on a Brown Leather Strap. Features a deployment clasp, 50M water resistance, scratch resistant sapphire crystal.
Each watch has a RRP of €3,250.00
Now available at €2,250.00
Boxed, with certificate of authenticity, and 3 year manufacturers warranty.
White Dial Chronograph, with Brown Leather Strap
Black Dial Chronograph, with Black Leather Strap
For more information on either of the three contact me directly at: